Thursday, October 13, 2011

Sainte-Chapelle

I wasn't planning to visit Sainte-Chapelle on this trip mainly because it is always so crowded and the line so long...but when we crossed the bridge on to the Ile-de-la-cite and saw NO LINE...we both thought it would be nice to see again.  As usual, the line was hidden inside around the corner but it was not a long wait at all.  And, once inside, we were able to see so much more than on our previous visit.
Sainte Chapelle was built in the 13th century to house holy relics.  It is a Gothic architectural marvel; built in only 33 months.  There is a lower chapel where the commoners and servants worshipped and upper chapel reserved for the king and royal family.

Lower chapel
Entrance is through the lower chapel. Forty columns, which were decorated in the 19th century, carry the central vault which is only 23 ft. high.  In the rear of the room, a narrow, spiral staircase leads to the upper chapel.




The lower chapel is a very intimate space and quite awesome in itself.


Upper chapel
When climbing the winding stairs, you can imagine being a "royal" but nothing in your imagination can create the overwhelming awe that is experienced seeing this magnificient chapel for the first (or second) time.   The stained glass is the oldest to survive in Paris.  The windows were crafted by the best master-craftsmen, who had recently completed work at Chartres Cathedral.  There are over 1000 scenes depicting Bible stories from the Old and New testaments.
The entire room has a rose glow.  Light filters through the 15 50ft. stained glass windows~a kaleidoscope of brilliant color.  The windows are separated by the narrowest of columns that go almost undetected. Attached to each column is a statue of one of the Apostles.Each window tells a different story, interpreted from bottom to top.  I'm really not sure how one would actually be able to focus on an individual panel.  This is real 'sensory overload'.


The chapel is encircled by blind arcading.  The windows begin above.
 The rose window, a gift of Charles VII in 1485, illustrates St. John's vision of the Apocalypse; it is best seen at sunset.
The main portal is the same on both levels.  This photo was taken from the terrace of the portal to the upper chapel.  The carvings depict stories from the Bible.


The spire rises 245 ft. It was erected in 1853 after 3 previous spires burned down.
Surviving relics now are housed in the Notre Dame Cathedral  and the 17th century organ is now at St. Germain l'Auxerrois.  Evening concerts are performed in the upper chapel a couple times a week.

Sainte-Chapelle is a treasure that should not be missed.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Paris Four~ First Days

We arrived at the apartment in the early afternoon. After unpacking a bit and trying to organize our space, we ventured out to the G-20 (supermarche) to stock up on a few necessities....eggs, milk, diet Coke, salami, bread, raspberry (framboise) preserves, Kleenex and laundry soap.  Next stop was the boulangerie for the morning's pastries (croissants and pain au chocolat).  Then more unpacking.
Dinner plans?  Off to La Perla (a favorite Italian restaurant) on rue Montorgueil.  I had my favorite four cheese ravioli.

We were pleased that the waiter actually remembered us from last year.
Falling to sleep was definitely not a problem on this night!
The second day was spent traipsing around in search of an adapter.  You would think in a city as tourist oriented as Paris that it would be easy...it wasn't.  The language barrier was probably the main cause of our lack of immediate success.  But we did find it and were friends at the end of the day.

The first real sight-seeing day found us in the Marais (3rd and 4th arr.)

(Map from Google)
We had to buy Metro tickets from the "le machine"(yikes!) but the new machine was so much easier than the one we had to use last time; you can choose your language and it's all touch screen.  Today's plans include; finding Village St. Paul, Hotel Sully, Place St. Catherine and Musee Cognacq-Jay.
The guide book says to enter Village St. Paul by one of the small passageways on rue St. Paul, so we did.
This passage led to a 'dead end' at Eglise St. Paul-St. Louis, so we went in.

It was nice to enter this way because the front entrance is completely obscured by scaffolding.
But we were looking for Village St. Paul, so we retraced our steps back to rue St. Paul and took the next passageway.

The end of the 'tunnel' is rue St. Paul.

Village St. Paul
What I had read about this area is that it is a maze of shops, mostly antique, and restaurants and it is, but most were closed.  We were practically the only people roaming around.



On one side of Village St. Paul a long section of the  Phillipe -Auguste city wall can be seen.  Built between 1190 and 1220 as a defensive wall; there are a few sections of the wall that remain and can be seen in the Latin Quarter (5th arr.)

From here, Hotel Sully was just a short walk across rue St, Antoine.
Hotel Sully is a 17th century mansion built in the Renaissance style. The Duc de Sully was Henri IV's chief minister.  Today the mansion is an annex to the Jeu de Paume which houses photography exhibits.  The courtyard is the main attraction here.
Courtyard of Hotel Sully

The Mole Hill (our title) ~I don't think this sculpture is 17th century.

Leaving the garden, we entered the Place des Vosges.  The symmetry of the square make it one of the most beautiful in Paris. 36 houses, 9 on each side, with deep slate roofs and arcades surround the place.  Along the arcades are shops, restaurants and cafes; it's a wonderful place to sit and 'people watch'.
Arcade
Entrance from a small street.


These are 2 of the four areas within the Place.
One of the shops.  I wasn't going to include the photo because of the reflections but I think it adds a little something.
We did find the Place du Marche-Sainte Catherine.  It is really tucked into the web of little alleyways which give the Marais it's character.  The square itself is small and quite charming; full of restaurants and cafes.
Our last stop for the day was Musee Cognacq-Jay.  This is a small collection of French 18th century art and furniture formed by Ernest Cognacq and his wife Louise Jay, founder of the La Samaritane~Paris's largest department store until it closed in 2005.   (The story of La Samaritane will be another post for sure.)




 We didn't view the entire mansion as it was quite warm and the building was not air-conditioned.  We decided to stop to eat and rest.
This was the view from the cafe.
Quiche, Salad Mixte with that wonderful dijon vinaigrette.
  Une tres bonne journee.

Paris Four~ Another Wonderful Trip

One would think that after 3 trips to Paris I'd be on auto-pilot and all the kinks would have been ironed out for trip # 4.  Admittedly, I was a bit lax with my usual pre-planning routine.  I have such a long list of places not seen on previous trips that I really didn't do much research.  My little itinerary guide wasn't as "complete" (detailed) as it's been in the past.
There were a few key forgotten items. Never leave home without the Michelin Green Guide and remember to pack all the appropriate adapters/converters.  Travelling without my green guide was a minor inconvenience; having to search out the right adapter proved to be a major task.  We spent 2 days 'futzing' with the adapter issue.  The people at FNAC were not very helpful (no one seemed to "parlez anglais") and it didn't help that my knowledge of French doesn't include any vocabulary related to technical or electronic devices; Monoprix had every adapter but the one we needed.  The problem was finally resolved in the basement of BHV (take Home Depot and put it in the basement of a department store);  I took my camera battery charger with me, went to the first salesperson, held it up and said "adapter".  He smiled and took me right to the needed item.

We learned a great new travelling lesson on this trip.  I wonder why I hadn't figured this one out before.  We were walking on Rue St. Honore and stopped at a wonderful fruit and vegetable market.  The strawberries were so red and perfect looking, it was hard to believe they were real....and were they sweet!  Across the street was a charcuterie.  I was looking in the window at the pastries and my husband said let's go in.  We came out with our dinner, 2 slices of roast pork, haricots verts(green beans) and sauteed potatoes; all for 12.80 euros.  This was one of those serendiptous finds.  It proved to be not only a money saver but also allowed us to eat when we wanted to and not have to go out after an exhausting day.  We became frequent customers at Le Grandgousier.


Our apartment was tolerable. I did not follow my own "rules" for finding the perfect apartment. We thought we were getting a one bedroom; what we found was a bed separated by a partial wall from the living area.  The bathroom, I knew would be small.  In fact, it was microscopic and the photos didn't show that you had to climb up and into a shower that you could barely turn around in.  But the washer and dryer were wonderful and so easy to figure out.  This apt. was only one street from the one we rented last year so I had "expectations"....like peace and quiet.  Our little apt. agency rule book stated to respect the residents and to keep noise down, especially after 10 pm.  The residents didn't seem to have that rule.  It was fine though.  The managers were friendly and came immediately when I couldn't figure out how to close the window.  The 3 large windows opened 2 ways either from the top or from the side...I managed to get one opened from the top and side at the same time~not good.  After it was fixed, we got a lesson in French window operation.

One thing that would really help the traveler who has to pack for a month is knowing what the weather is going to be~hot or cool.  In September you expect fall, I packed for fall and included a few hot weather clothes; we never used the sweaters and turtlenecks.  Woody was smart, he packed a pair of shorts (lesson learned from last September).
That's the sad part of the story.  The rest was just wonderful.  The "highlights" for me were:

  • The tour of the Normandy D-day Beaches
  • Seeing the stunning and outrageously beautiful Opera Garnier
  • Being able to tie my scarves as skillfully as a Parisienne
  • Discovering the charcuterie
  • Fontainebleau
  • Being able to find my way around without referring to a map at every intersection
  • Putting our "love lock" on the Pont des Arts
  • Prosecco and Profiteroles with chocolate (instead of vanilla) ice cream
  • The architecture, the parks and shop windows and just being awed by all the beauty and creativity that can be found in even the most unexpected places.
That's enough...it's time for "show and tell".  Allez a la ville de lumiere.