~It's Official~ Paris in May 2013

We have our airline tickets and have reserved an apartment in Paris for the month of May.  This time we will be staying in the 16th arr. on the rue Gustave Courbet.  It's not far from the Trocodero across the river from the Eiffel Tower.

This will be a new area for us to explore.  The 16th is mostly residential with many Embassies and high-end shops.  There are many museums clustered around the Trocodero.

The Bois de Boulogne and Parc de Bagatelle have been on my list for years, but since it was so far out we never ventured that way.  Now we will be on that side of the city and it is on the top of my list.  We should be there in time to see the Iris Garden in bloom.

I do a lot of research before our trips, always trying to find something new and different to see and do.  While doing my routine search, I came across this interesting site~Guided Photo Tours in Paris.  Having a professional photographer take you on a personal tour with personal instruction sounds perfect to me.  A photo tour of Montmartre would be wonderful.   So, that's on my 'to do' list too.

There are still many museums we haven't seen;  the Architecture Museum (I read that the cafe has a fabulous view of the Eiffel Tower) and the Counterfeit Museum are on the top of the list.  Of course, we will go to the Louvre again.  It's so big that there is always something new to discover.

There 2 areas of Paris that have also been on the list for several years~ Buttes aux Cailles and Canal St-Martin.  Check the link~I have mentioned the Canal St-Martin before.  It runs from the Bastille northeast to the Parc de Villette and is supposed to be a beautiful quiet walk. 

 Located on a hill, Buttes aux Cailles is a lesser known neighborhood in the 13th arr.  It has a village-like atmosphere with winding, narrow cobblestone streets.

As I add to my list, I will share more of the "Paris 5"  itinerary~ a bientot!

~Architecture~

Of all the things I love about Paris, the architecture is at the very top of the list.  As you walk through each arrondissement, the story of Paris' history is told through it's buildings.

Medieval, Rococo, Renaissance, Neo-Classical, Second Empire eclecticism, Art Nouveau, Contemporary and Modern are just a few of the architectural styles found in Paris.  The city, a center of art and architecture, changed and evolved with the times. It is remarkable that so much of the past and variety of styles have survived. 

Remains of the Gallo-Roman period are rare; vestiges of Roman public baths can be see at the Musée de Cluny.  The Lutèce Arena was the home of Roman circus games. 

Arene Lutece in the 5th arr.

Medieval area of St. Germain

Donjon of the Chateau de Vincennes, built in the 13th cent.

The Gothic period signaled the end of the Middle Ages and the beginning of the Renaissance. The Renaissance brought the influence of Italian art; channeled columns, coffered ceilings, ionic & doric capitals and sculptures recalling mythological figures.

Upper chapel of Sainte Chapelle considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture.

Hotel d'Hoeret in the Marias, 4th arr.

Flamboyant Renaissance

The Neo-Classical era followed to the end of the 18th c.  Paris saw a proliferation of columns, arcades, cupolas and mansard roofs.  

Avenue des Colonnes  2nd arr.

In the middle of the 19th century, Paris had the same structure as it did in the Middle Ages.  In 1853, Napoleon III appointed Baron Hausmann to carry out his ambitious plan to modernize Paris.  His goals were to improve the sanitary conditions, reduce the population density and to make the city more accessible and secure.

To this end, Hausmann widened the streets into straight grand boulevards running North-South and East-West creating more accessibilty. Where these boulevards crossed, large squares were created. Baron Hausmann's urban renovation resulted in a definitive building code.  Roofs were required to have at least a 45 degree incline; this resulted in the classic Second Empire appearance which includes mansard roofs, top-floor  garrets and alignment of building facades. Quarry stone was required for construction. 

  At the same time, large grand buildings were created.  Each of the newly created arrondissements (12 to 20) was given a town hall.  A hospital (Hotel Dieu) and prison were built on the Ile de la Cité.  The resplendent Opéra Garnier was built.

  Two rail stations were constructed, the water system was improved by creating aqueducts to bring water into the newly built reservoirs, a sewer system was created.  Paris had few green spaces at the time.  Inspired by a visit to London, Napoleon hired an engineer to create vast green spaces and public parks.  Squares were built and trees were planted along avenues. The Bois de Vincennes was built giving the east side of the city space comparable to the Bois du Boulogne on the west.

  Though not overwhelmingly popular at the time, the Hausmann transformations greatly improved the quality of life in the capital. Baron Hausmann is now known as the first great urban planner and his legacy is the magnificent city of Paris.

The "Belle Epoque" was an extension of the classical style but with more grandeur and flourish.  The Opéra Garnier is the finest example.  During this time metal was used in architectural design.  

From the "belle epoque" came a new form, Art Nouveau;  this richly decorative style was inspired by Nature.  The Metro entrances designed by Hector Guimard are a fine example of Art Nouveau style and metal construction.  Only 2 of the original entrances remain today.

 29 Avenue Rapp

Abbesses Metro Entrance

Art Deco is an eclectic style that began in the 1920s. Art Deco's linear symmetry was a distinct departure from the asymmetrical curvilinear style of Art Nouveau.

Entrance to an apartment building in the 3rd arr.

Theatre des Champs-Elysee (photo from Wikimedia commons)

The middle of the 20th century saw the rise of Modern architecture; simple design, less ornamentation and usage of industrial materials~ concrete, steel and glass.

A Modern apartment building near the Place de la Bastille.

 A Modern hotel in Les Halles district

Radical contemporary Pompidou Center

It is the diversity of  its architecture, the blending of antiquity and elegance, that allow Paris to hold, deservedly, the title of "the most beautiful city in the world".

~Which Museum??~

Paris has over 150 museums. The variety is impressive.  There is something for everyone; fashion, postage, photography, architecture, history, chocolate, puppets, magic, sculpture, rocks and art.  Most people know of the Louvre, but how many have heard of the Musee de la Contrefacon (counterfeiting).
Here are a few of the lesser known museums that we've enjoyed.


Rodin Museum
The Rodin Museum displays sculpture both indoors and out.  The lovely garden showcases several large sculptures including "The Thinker".  Located in the 7th arr. it's very near the Invalides.

"The Kiss"

Musee de Mineralogie and Geologie
The minerology museum is just one of the museums located in the Jardin des Plantes.  This museum is remarkable in its presentation of the rock and gem specimens.  The rooms are dark, only the display cases are lit to illuminate each display.  The collection is extensive.

The collection of giant crystals is exceptional.   These crystals were much taller than me, easily 6 ft.

Musee de l'Armee

The Military Museum located in the Invalides is an unsung treasure.  It can't be seen in just one day. The museum spans 4 buildings on 4 floors; the themes include Arms and Armor, 17th-19th century arms and weapons, First World War & Second World War.  There is also section devoted to relief maps with scale models of towns, harbors and fortresses.

We spent one day in the World I and World War II section .  I posted our visit previously; you can see that on this link: Musee de l'Armee.   

Below are just a few photos of the extensive collections.

 

 Small models depict military uniforms from the 7th century through the 20th century.

These represent the time of Charlemagne circa 768.

 A collection of various types of grenades.

The Maritime Museum
The marine museum is located in the Trocodero across from the Eiffel Tower.  It is small but the exhibits are well done.  Most are scale models but the collection includes many important artifacts dating from the 17th c. to the present day.   The displays show the technical and scientific evolution of navigation.  There is also a large collection of maritime art.

The Emperor's personal barge.

 A warship outfitted with canons.

 A ship with attached protective mesh

Diving suit

Lighthouse Fresnel lens developed by French physicist Augustin-Jean Fresnel

 Shipbuilding models

Marine Compass

Music Museum

The Cite de la Musique is located in the large park, La Villette.  I had read about it in the Michelin Guide.

It was one of our most favorite excursions.  There is a previous post dedicated to the music museum and includes many more photos of the unusual instruments.  After we visited, we suggested this site to anyone who asked for suggestions of sites to see.  There wasn't one person who had ever heard of it.

The museum contains over 900 instruments and follows the evolution of musical instruments from the 17th c. on.  It also includes instruments used by famous musicians, scale models of the great opera houses, Asian and African instruments and the tools used to make instruments.  The audio guide is superb.

 clavecin

 lutes

 harps

 omnitonic horn (18th cent.)

 The Violin family

 Model of the Palais Garnier in Paris

 Octobass

Instruments from various Asian countries

IMPORTANT:  Before you venture out to see any museum, find out the days the museum is closed and if it is open or "under construction".  Construction is a very common in Paris!


Musee de la Contrefacon
This is the museum of counterfeiting. It has been on my "to see" list for all 4 of our trips to Paris. (It is only open for a couple hours on certain days of the week.) The museum exhibits more than 350 items, pairing each counterfeit with its authentic original.  It is located in the 16th arr., 16 rue de la Faisanderie. The closest Metro is Porte Dauphine.  

We definitely will not be at a loss for finding a museum that we haven't seen.  There are at least 120 more to search out and explore.

~Signs, Signs, Signs ~

Signs are everywhere...old wrought iron signs, new LED signs, signs to give directions, warning signs, information signs, signs to designate a business or historical landmark.  Here are a few that caught my eye.

This 19th century restaurant in Montmartre boasts serving many of the Impressionist artists.

The sign outside of the Mosque of Paris.

A sign in a small garden area beside a church.."no bikes, no dogs and no ball games".

One of the famous music halls.

As you will notice, these directional signs are everywhere and they are very helpful!

Yes, Domino's....even in Paris.

The street signs that are located on the corners of buildings.  They give the arrondissment at the top, the name of the street and anything else that might be of interest.  This sign says you are on Rue Jean Lantier, in the first arrondissment and that Jean Lantier lived here in the 13th century.

This shop sold......underwear.

The sign says it all.  (Some people can't change.)

Several examples of the directional signs at major intersections.

This is some sort of Catholic association, next to one of the cathedrals.

LED signs...these are new!

It is important to learn English, the language of business.

Signs advertising learning English are especially plentiful on the Metro.

The sign above the locksmith shop.

Books bought and sold ~ in the Passage Vivienne.

Shoes

A popular restaurant and nightclub.

These signs are especially helpful when you are in an area of narrow winding alleyways~

like Montmartre.

More LED.

Another locksmith.

 This is a "slippery when wet~danger of falling" sign. It was in one of the museums.

 This sign was in the Paris History Museum...we think it is a sign for 

an exterminator judging by the rats.

  The historical markers will be found at every important site in Paris.

 This is another sign in the Paris History Museum...probably the eye doctor.

These are all the rules for taking care of your dog...including picking up after him.

This is another sign for an Optician.

The street where we stayed in 2008.

The shop sign says " the last drop"....it is a well known wine shop.

I hope you enjoyed your tour of Paris by way of the signs....