~Rouen~ A Day Trip

Rouen is the historic capital city of Normandy, in Northern France on the River Seine.  Once one of the largest and most prosperous cities of Medieval Europe.  In the Middle Ages it was the seat of the Exchequer (revenue collecting) of Normandy.  It was one of the capitals of the Anglo-Norman dynasties, which ruled England and large parts of France from the 11th to 15th centuries.  It was in Rouen where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431.

In a nutshell, Rouen is old (over 2,000 years) and historic.  I've wanted to see Rouen ever since I became a lover of Monet.  The four scenes of Rouen Cathedral at different times of the day was fascinating.  Rouen was to have been my "birthday excursion" on our last visit~ that did not happen.   This trip it is to be my birthday excursion and it is on the "must see" list.

Notre-Dame Cathedral in Rouen

Rouen Cathedral

One of the 20 Monet paintings of the facade of the Cathedral.

Rouen has an long history of war and being passed back and forth between England and France (Hundred Years War).

During World War II,  45 % of the city was destroyed.  The cathedral suffered partial damage but much of the historic core survived. Many of the old half timbered houses remain.

Rouen was the first city in France to make faience, earthenware covered with color glazes.  There is one artisan who still makes this type of pottery in Rouen.

This is the St. Maclou church.  The style is flamboyant Gothic.  Next to St. Maclou is the plague cemetery.  During the Middle Ages  2/3 of the church's parishioners died of the plague.  The cemetery is in effect a mass grave.

This is the impressive Renaissance clock.  In the 16th century only an hour hand was needed.

Rouen has a Museum of Fine Art with paintings from many periods including one of Monet's Cathedral facade.   There is also a Museum of Iron Works and a Museum of Ceramics..  There is a modern church built as a tribute to St. Joan of Arc.  The church has a Scandinavian style reminding us of Normandy's Nordic roots.

The Place du Vieux Marche, the old market square, is surrounded by half timbered buildings, restaurants, a produce market and park.

The trip to Rouen from Paris takes about an hour by train....and if the weather is nice...I will spend my birthday there.

I do not know why the highlighting appeared half way through this post but I have given up trying to "fix" it.  Computers always win out!

~A day in the Sixth~

We cross the Seine via the oldest bridge,Pont Neuf , and make our way to the sixth arrondissement usually referred to as the St. Germain des Pres district.  It includes the  Eglise St. Germain-des-Pres and St. Sulpice (mentioned in the DaVinci Code), wonderful shopping (especially shoes), educational institutions such as the Ecole des Beaux Arts, many famous cafes and the Jardin de Luxembourg.

The Eglise St. Germain des Pres is actually the abbey church of the Abbey of St. Germain des Pres.  The abbey was built in the 6th century and at the time it was outside of medieval Paris.  It has been frequently plundered and burned and rebuilt. The porch tower of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (built 990-1014) sturdily 
buttressed to support the weight of its massive bells, is one of the oldest bell towers still standing in France.


Across the Place St. Germain opposite the church is the famous Cafe Les Deux Magots.

It once had a reputation as the rendezvous spot of the literary and intellectual élite of the city. Its historical reputation is derived from the patronage of Surrealist artists, intellectuals such as Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, and young writers, such as Ernest Hemingway. Other patrons included Albert Camus and Pablo Picasso. It is now a favorite tourist destination.


Making our way towards Jardin du Luxembourg, we will walk/ browse many of the shops of St. Germain.  It is especially renowned for Pierre Herme Chocolates and Macarons, the stationery/card shops and shoes!

The Jardin du Luxembourg, to me, is the most beautiful park in Paris.

The lovely open space near the Palais is used for a respite from work by Parisians, who come to catch some sun or eat their lunch.  On the weekend, kids can rent sailboats and sail them in the pool.  The Medici fountain above is beautiful~in this photo, the nose was part of an 'art exhibit' in the park.  The paths through park are lined with Chestnut trees.  In the open spaces you will see many different activities from Tai Chi classes to practising gymnasts.  There are pony rides for the kids too.


This will be a full day.  On the way back to the apartment we will pass through 5th arr. to see St .Etienne du Mont, the site of the 'midnight scene' from the Woody Allen movie, "Midnight in Paris".

It's less than 3 weeks until we leave...I'm getting excited, though I'm not looking forward to packing 2 bags with a month's worth of clothes.

~Bois de Boulogne~

We are counting the days now....18 to go.  I only  have to purchase the euros and pack the bags.

The Bois de Boulogne has been on my 'to see' list since our first trip in 2006.  We didn't make it then so it is now on the 'must see' list.

The Bois has a very long history.  In the Middle Ages the forest was hunted for bear, deer and wild boars. In the 7th century the land was sold to the Abbey of St. Denis and monasteries were built.  In 1308  PhilipIV bought the land back, gave it its present name and it became the royal forest for hunting.  It also became notorious as a refuge for bandits.  In the 16th century Henri II enclosed the forest with a wall that included 8 gates. In the 17th century Louis XIV opened the forest to the public.  During the French revolution the forest again became a refuge for the poor, the destitute and those fleeing 'the terror'.  Napoleon III gave the forest to the city and Baron Hausmann** had it landscaped, walls torn down and ornamental lakes and ponds added. This was part of the huge urban planning project that turned the Paris into the city it is today.

The Bois de Boulogne covers of 2000 acres (more than twice the size of Central Park) and has over 20 miles walking paths, horseback riding paths and bicyle lanes as well as a few wide avenues.  There is a children's amusement area known as the Jardin d'Acclimation which includes a zoo.  The Parc de Bagatelle is renowned for it's beautiful rose garden.  The racecourse, Hippodrome de Longchamp was opened by Napoleon III and continues to hold prestigious racing events.

Chateau de Longchamp

There are man-made lakes and boats to rent, cascades, pavilions and restaurants throughout the park.

For me, walking is limited so I will not see all of it I'm sure.  I did find a bus route (244) that travels right through the Bois, stopping at the Parc de Bagatelle.  This is the part that we will explore.

Springtime in the Bois.

Lac Superieur is connected to Lac Inferieur  by a waterfall.
Lac Inferieur is actually the larger of the 2 lakes.

** Baron Hausmann's urban restructuring is described in David McCullough's new book "The Greater Journey". We can thank Napoleon III and Baron Hausmann for the beautiful city that Paris is today.

I should also note that most travel books and websites state that the park is rather unsavory at night.

  I read that the French police are trying to crack down on the prostitution.

~a bientot~